After a tasty breakfast (pain au chocolat!), a tongue lashing from a blind Parisian and perhaps walking through a scene of a French television show, we’re enroute to Luxembourg. This is our first use of our handy-dandy Eurrail pass.
We, well I, watch the picturesque countryside drift past the windows, complete with pastoral farms dotting the landscape. Chris catches up on his beauty sleep. For those of you travelling by international train to Luxembourg City, beware: there are no signs on the platform to indicate your location.
Our adorable hotel, Hotel Carlton, is deceptively close to the station. It’s almost humorous how long it takes us to figure out how close things are in this city—we’re used to following maps in places where distances between points are farther apart than they appear on paper in Luxembourg.
As we wait for the dapper, energetic Italian who “runs the place with gusto,” according to our guidebook, C comments that perhaps this place is too nice for us—it features colorful stained glass windows and nice furniture. Our munificent host loads us up with orange juice and illustrated maps and sends us out for adventure.
In the Place d’Armes, we share a €62 dinner, which C insists upon, using my progressing cold as justification. Following dinner, we stroll along the scenic Chemin de la Corniche, reportedly known as “Europe’s most beautiful balcony,” and down to the Bock Casemates, where thousands of people sheltered themselves from harm during both World Wars.
For dessert, we treat ourselves to rich café mochas at Hotchockspoon across from the Palais Grand Ducal, Chris nearly hanging out the window to snap pictures of the pacing guard.
Nearby is the Musèe d’Histoire de la Ville de Luxembourg, free on Thursday evenings, although we would gladly have paid. This is by far the most profound experience we have had at a museum, particularly due to the Manslaughter and Murder exhibit on the top three floors, which we realize sounds completely grotesque, but which offers a totally life-affirming experience. A definite recommend.